Japan Guide: Tokyo

For a general overview of my experience in Japan, see my Japan Tips. This post is a guide to things to see and eat in and around Tokyo, how to get there, and where I stayed.

The last time I was in Tokyo was 1990. I remember getting bit by a squirrel at the giant Buddha statue and not being allowed to go on the Haunted Mansion ride at Disneyland, but not much else. While that was an eventful thrip for four-year-old me, I tend to shove that experience into the "hardly counts" bucket. Coming back 27 years later, I was approaching Tokyo with the fresh eyes of a newbie.

Since I didn't want to lose a day of my short trip to a Disney park, and TSA regulations meant I wasn't going to exact sweet, sweet rodent revenge with a bb gun, I decided to stick mostly to the city, with one day trip to go see Mt. Fuji.

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Where to Eat in Tokyo

Ramen, pancakes, gyoza, curry, sweets. You can find whatever you want to eat in Tokyo. Going in the winter, the most satisfying thing in the world was tucking into a bowl of ramen or plate of curry, stuffing my belly and thawing out. 

Ippudo

Yes, it's basically a chain now. Yes, they just opened one in SF. But I went anyway, because I read more than one guide that counted it among the best ramen in Tokyo, and who am I to argue with that? And now everyday when I walk home from work past the line outside the SF location, I'm happy all over again that I bellied up to the counter at the Roppongi location for a bowl of ramen and fried dumplings. Both were excellent, by the way.

Rokurinsha

Did I travel to Tokyo for one specific bowl of ramen? Not exactly, but this place definitely put the idea in my head that maybe, just maybe I should head to Japan to stand in a long line in Tokyo station for tsukemen ramen. And I'm not saying you should now fly to Japan just to eat here, but if you are already heading to Tokyo this place should be on your list. There's something I love about this style of ramen, dipping cold noodles in an almost gravy-like broth. And, if you don't want to wait in the line at Tokyo station, they have an outpost in the International Terminal at Haneda too.

Hitachino Brewing Lab

So, fun story: I went to the Granroof Tokyo Station location twice during my trip, because it was a lovely bar to sit in and escape from the cold, and I thought, how nice, I found a decent IPA in Japan! I was back home for a week before I recognized a familiar owl sign, and I realized I pass this place everyday on my way to and from work in SF. So, not quite the local find I thought it was, oops. 

Flippers

You may already know that impossibly fluffy, souffle pancakes are a bit of a thing in Japan. I sort of knew this, but then during my food research for the trip I discovered there are so many places you can go where the only thing on the menu are these pancakes. Flippers is one such place, and I waited in the pouring rain outside their Shimokitazawa location for my chance to sample a plate of these pillowy wonders. I honestly wanted a little more out of these than the barely flavored sweet air I got, but maybe other chains are better, maybe I should have ordered the chocolate ones, or maybe the whole point is the raft of sweetened whipped cream on top and the experience of standing in line with 20 Japanese teenagers?

Melon Pan

If you see anyone walking around Tokyo eating what looks like an entire, cross-hatched loaf of bread, it's probably melon pan. These sweet loaves look massive, but are basically bread cotton candy (they don't taste like melon!), and collapse into only a few bites. I tried the melon pan from two places; a plain, lightly sweetened loaf from Kagetsudo in Asakusa near Sensoji Temple and a caramel flavored bun from Tokyo Melon Pan.

Harajuku Gyoza Ro

If you want gyoza, this place has gyoza, and not much else on the menu. Dumplings come in pork, fried or steamed, and inexpensively. The menu may not be varied but it doesn't matter because what they do have is delicious.

Croquant Chou Zaku Zaku

So I accidentally got really excited over the choux sticks at a train station bakery, only to look at the bag it came in and realize I had gone to Beard Papa's. It turns out they are a Japanese chain, but another one that I walk by everyday at home, so I was a little bummed I had gone to an SF place, even for an impulse sugar fix. Which is why, the next day in Harajuku, I was hesitant to investigate the heavenly smell wafting down Takeshita dori, in case it turned out to be McDonald's apple pies or something. But no, it was cream puff sticks again, but these were incredible, crunchy on the outside and full of sweet, delicious pastry cream inside. I would have happily eaten two or three, but I had fried pork and gyoza still on the menu that day.

Maisen

Speaking of fried pork, I can't imagine not screaming at anyone and everyone to go to Maisen. Yeah, it's internet famous and so probably not cool anymore, but damn if this wasn't the best fried pork cutlet (or any meat cutlet) I've ever had, and this is from a girl who ate a vast quantity of schnitzel as a child. The pork was perfect and expertly fried, and I ate the entire massive piece after a day of playing food tourist across Tokyo. Honestly, I blame the applesauce, that stuff was magic. I hear this place can be a zoo during the day, but I went after 6pm for dinner, and I was the only diner at the counter.

Indo Curry Nakaei

As someone who vehemently does not eat raw fish, did it make sense for me to go to Tsukiji fish market in search of breakfast on a freezing cold, snowy morning? Absolutely. Because I got to laugh at the poor suckers huddled under awnings waiting for their sushi dreams to come true while I just popped right into this curry joint, warm and steaming from the pots of stew cooking in the back. I pointed vaguely at the menu and immediately received a platter of spicy and sweet tomato curries, divided down the middle by a barrier of rice. I grabbed a spoon and dug in, and it was the best breakfast I had in Tokyo.

What to Do in Tokyo

Unlike Kyoto, in Tokyo it can be a little harder to answer the question, "What should I do today?" when it's freezing cold outside and you don't want to go shopping. But there are more shrines to see, streets to explore, and of course, via a short day trip, majestic Fuji-san.

Shibuya Crossing

Arguably the most famous intersection in the world, it's completely worth hopping on a train to Shibuya to join the throngs of pedestrians criss crossing beneath the neon billboards. 

Harajuku & Takeshita dori

Maybe it was too cold or maybe I went at the wrong time of day, but I didn't witness the fashion spectacle I was expecting in Harajuku. Even so, there was plenty of fun people watching on Takeshita dori, and those crazy amazing cream puffs I mentioned above.

Yanaka

This neighborhood wasn't bombed during World War II, and so you can find a completely different feel here than in other areas of Tokyo that are entirely modern construction. I wandered down the little main street and stopped in a tea shop. If you have the time, it's worth the train ride for experience a completely different ambience than I found anywhere else in Tokyo.

Meiji-jingu Shrine

I didn't really seek out any shrines or temples in Tokyo, because I certainly saw plenty in Kyoto. But this rebuilt shrine is located in a beautiful park on the edge of Harajuku, and I think it's worth walking through on the way.

Mt. Fuji

You'll need to set aside a day, and if you aren't driving you'll probably have to take a tour, but leaving Tokyo to go see Mt. Fuji, especially in the winter when it's clear, was completely worth it to me, especially as a new visitor to Japan. I somehow lucked out and the day I went to Mt. Fuji was the only clear day of my entire trip. When I woke up in the morning I discovered I could see Fuji from my hotel room, and then later got to see it up close. My tour only made it to the First Station due to heavy snows, but even from there and the nearby lake district the view was stunning. Plus, the tour stopped at a local onsen where I soaked in hot springs under the vista of the mountain. That was pretty cool.

Tsukiji Market

Somehow this place has become a major tourist attraction considering it's where Tokyo restaurants go to buy all their fish. Tourists can't get in to watch the tuna auction anymore, but it's known as the best place for sushi in Tokyo, and the outer market is an attraction in itself, with its maze of vendor stalls and yes, more sushi restaurants.

Imperial Palace Gardens

The gardens of the Imperial Palace are open to the public a few days a week, though sadly not on Fridays, which is when I finally made it there. But even the glimpse I got from the main courtyard of the grounds and the buildings made it obvious that it's worth a walk through when it is open.

Where to Stay in Tokyo

Park Hotel Tokyo

I stayed in the Shiodome area of Tokyo, which I'm not sure is a usual tourist location. However, from this hotel located on the 25th floor of a skyscraper, the views of the rest of the city are stunning, especially at night when the Tokyo Tower is glowing brilliant orange. There is also an entire floor that is essentially an art exhibit, with rooms designed and painted by artists in a variety of Japanese themes, from Geisha Goldfish to Wabi-sabi. I stayed in the Zodiac room, where the walls were covered in mischievous animals, though that was a bit startling to wake up to in the middle of the night and see a giant tiger staring at me.

Beyond the decoration, the hotel is in a great location for a lot of popular tourist sites and convenient to several subway lines via both Shiodome and Shimbashi stations.

Getting Around Tokyo

Yep, you're gonna take the subway. A lot. Tokyo is massive, and there's really no other way to get around. A Pasmo or Suica card, and a pocket wifi powering Google maps will be your best friends. But you can zoom around to all the sites you want to see, and food you want to eat. Tokyo may be the only city I've ever been to where you work up an appetite taking the train all day. But the stations are massive and I don't think I once left using the correct exit, so be prepared for plenty of walking as well.

Japan Guide: Kyoto

#fbf to Japan today! I wrote about my overall trip last week and some helpful tips I learned along the way, but now we can talk about the important things, like what to eat! And see and do and where to stay, but mostly, what to eat because this is Japan and they've been showing the world what to do with food for centuries.

Where to Eat in Kyoto

During my three days in Kyoto, I tried a wide range of foods, from udon to grilled mochi balls to tofu steak. It was all fantastic and I'm pretty sure you can't find a bad meal there (well, maybe I found one).

Nishiki Market

This covered market has tons of food stalls and little shops, selling anything from pickled vegetables to live tiny shrimp. It is a zoo in the best way, and the only approach to take is to just wander from end to end, stopping to eat whatever looks amazing. 

Omen

I came here for dinner after a day of forgetting to feed myself (who was that girl?). The name means noodles, and you will get noodles, along with delicious broth to dip them in that you can augment with a whole array of veggies, sesame seeds, and various spicy powders. If you order one of there feasts like you should, then you will also get tempura veggies and scallops along with some grilled beef and pickles. You might physically hurt at the end of all that, but it's worth it, and unbelievably worth it after traipsing around in the cold all day long.

Nishiki Warai

I sought out this well regarded okonomiyaki place only to find my one so-so meal in Japan. I'm not sure if it was the cigarette smoke wafting from the next table or the disinterested service, or maybe I just don't like okohomiyaki, but I was a little underwhelmed by their savory pancakes. Other people seem to love it though, so don't let me dissuade you. I also discovered a service call button on the table at the very end of my meal, so perhaps service would have been better if I had found that earlier.

Gyoza 8

This gyoza shop in Gion is definitely catered to Westerners with an all-English menu board and a staff speaking excellent English. But I stumbled in there on my first full day in Kyoto when it started snowing and I couldn't feel my face anymore, and the gyoza were delicious. Plus, the woman working there gave me free rice and extra dumplings so she basically became my new favorite person.

Various Shrines and Temples

Outside many of Kyoto's famous shrines and temples you will find a plethora of street food stalls, restaurants and ice cream stands. The set up outside Fushimi Inari-taisha was the most impressive, where I sampled a tofu steak garnished with wasabi, nori, bonito flakes, ginger, and sriracha. I also ate grilled mochi balls dipped in some kind of sweet soy sauce outside Arashiyama, matcha soft serve at Kinkaku-ji, and drooled over everything else (except the whole grilled quails, heads and all). The only thing holding me back was the fact I had to take my gloves off to fish around my purse for coins and the memory of my last food crawl through NY with Ginny, which I never wrote about here, but involved painfully finding my upper limit for ice cream. 

What to See in Kyoto

Before Tokyo, Kyoto was the capital of Japan for centuries, so if you want Japanese history, you will find it here, in the form of historic town houses and preserved streets, and especially in the form of shrines and temples. Because, boy does Kyoto have shrines and temples. You might just stumble up a shrine while walking down a side street, and of course there are famous ones to seek out.

Nishiki Market

The market is obviously a great place to grab a snack, but just walking from end to end is adventure in itself. 

Tea Ceremony

I went to the Camellia Tea Ceremony, which caters to an English-speaking audience. It was lovely and informative, and at the end you can try to make your own cup of matcha. I was way worse at it than I expected, given the name of this blog and my general whisking skills. The shop was located just behind a super-touristy but scenic alleyway near Kyomizu-dera Temple, and to find it, use the map pin on the Camellia website. Google alone won't get you there without a few wrong turns.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha

This shrine is home to more orange torii gates than you ever could dream of, all lined along paths that wind up the mountain. Walk the circuit and work up an appetite for all the food sold outside the main entrance.

Tenriyu-ji Temple & Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

I only entered the temple to walk through the grounds to the Bamboo Grove. It's otherwordly and beautiful but to be honest I didn't feel like it was worth the trip to that part of Kyoto just for that. But if you find yourself already in the neighborhood, it's worth a walk through.

Shoren-in Temple

This place feels more like a sacred house than a temple, which makes sense since it was built as a residence surrounded by beautiful gardens. The garden was silent for the winter and the carp were huddled together for warmth, but it was still serene and worth the admission, though be warned the walls of the building were opened to the air, which meant I paid 500 yen to basically walk around outside in freezing temperatures in socks.

Kinkaku-ji

Home to the famous Golden Pavilion, it gets crowded and is a bit far from other sites, but I thought it was worth the bus trip.

Kyomizu-dera

The walk up to this temple definitely has a bit of a Disneyfied Kyoto vibe, but I loved the winding cobblestoned lanes and lined with vendors and tourist shops. At the very top, the streets open up to the brightly painted temple entrance filled with tourists and girls dressed up as Geishas for the day (I wondered at this until I remembered paying money to dress up as a cowgirl in a "Wild West Town" in South Dakota).

Where to Stay in Kyoto

I stayed in two different lodgings in Kyoto, a capsule hotel and a Ryokan. Capsule hotels are that Japanese invention of tiny rooms in a hostel-like setting, and Ryokan of course are traditional Japanese inns, where you can really experience Japanese culture and cuisine and seemingly escape from the modern world a bit.

Centurion Cabin & Spa

I knew that I wanted to try out a capsule hotel (aka a pod hotel) during my trip, both out of curiosity and frugality. Having never stayed at another pod hotel I can't really compare to anything else, but this place was about what I expected and more for $30/night.

I booked a cabin on the all female floor, which turned out to be a top-bunk level box that I accessed via a small ladder and a sliding door, containing a sleeping pallet, a small desk, a TV, WiFi, an alarm clock, and charging outlets. It was comfortable for sleeping, at least, though I couldn't stand upright and crawling up and down the ladder was a bit inconvenient. I also had to heave my suitcase up into the "room" because the only other storage option is in the corridor, in everyone else's way. There were toilets in a separate room that made chirping noises when you sat down, so at least it was private in every sense, and then further down the hall were some sinks with an array of hand and facial soaps, as well as a blow dryer and even a straightening iron. There was also a wall of assigned lockers, though they were pretty narrow and I barely got my backpack in there. 

The "spa" part of the hotel name is a traditional Japanese onsen bath, which at this place meant essentially a giant hot tub of mineral-enriched water, and a few showers. Keeping with tradition, the showers and onsen are strictly no clothes allowed. Oh well, when in Japan, right? You can easily forget your awkwardness around public nudity when the hot water feels so good on your legs after 10 miles of exploring Kyoto on foot.

The location was very convenient to major tourist areas, like Gion, Nishiki, and the subway.

Motonago Ryokan

I wanted to try to stay at least one night in a Ryokan, and I knew Kyoto was the place to do it. However, Ryokan, due to their small size and all-inclusiveness, tend to be a bit on the pricey side, and they also tend to cater to groups of at least two people. But I finally found a reservation at Motonago, a small, more budget-friendly Ryokan. I could book a room for one person, and choose whether I wanted to include dinner or breakfast or both. The room I booked had a private toilet (some don't), but not a bath, so I just reserved time in the public onsen downstairs. That onsen turned out to be a few shower stools and one large wooden bathtub overflowing with gloriously hot water, though after 15 minutes I was worried if I didn't leave they were going to discover me passed out in there. It's hot!

The breakfast was outstanding, with a whole array of traditional Japanese dishes I had no idea how to approach, but since it was served in my room, no one had to watch me stumble my way through. At night, a futon (really just a sleeping mattress) was rolled out from the closet and made up on the tatami mat floor. I was also given a Yakuta, or traditional robe, to lounge around in while in the Ryokan. I only did one night, but I could see how a few days just relaxing in a Ryokan would be sublime.

Getting Around Kyoto

Kyoto is a large city, and many of the attractions you may want to see aren't anywhere near each other. But the city has an extensive subway, light rail, and bus system, so getting around was really easy, and this was before I purchased a Pasmo card, so I was buying tickets individually. I also found that instead of transfers I was able to just walk between stations if I needed to, which gave me a bit of exercise, but my idea of how far is acceptable to walk may be different than yours. I only took a taxi twice, both to and from my Ryokan, which was in them middle of the city but not convenient to trains, and I didn't want to take my suitcase on the crowded bus.

Japan (and some travel tips!)

I took myself to Japan! 

A binge last year of the David Chang episodes of Mind of a Chef suddenly gave me stars in my eyes for going to Tokyo to eat ramen, winter weather or not, so that's what I did! I ate ramen, and also udon and gyoza and rolled omelets and okonomiyaki and tonkatsu  (but not sushi, ew). My stomach has never been more full.

Also, I went alone! (Sorry, Grandma!)

I was a little nervous, since it was my first time traveling alone to a non English-speaking country, but I read that Japan is a friendly place and fairly easy to get around despite the language barrier. I had also heard that it is above all safe and culturally pretty open to solo travelers and diners (unlike Sydney, where I sometimes can't enjoy my meal until the staff relaxes about me being alone). 

And you know what? It was amazing. And now I feel so empowered, ready to take myself everywhere! It really was incredible, and extremely self-affirming to prove my own capability. Sure, I wasn't perfect. I was a little cavalier with planning train travel and added unneeded worry around the logistics of my arrival. I constantly felt turned around, and when I got to Tokyo, I spent 30 stressful minutes hauling my suitcase around Tokyo Station while trying to track down the exact machine that had stolen my Shinkansen ticket so that I could leave the station.

But! I could take myself all the way across the city for melon pan if I wanted to, arrive in Harajuku way too early in the morning and decide to come back later, and no one was there to see me almost walk into a men's bathroom in Tokyo Station. I embraced public nudity in multiple onsens, because I would never see any of these people ever again! It was such a free feeling, to be totally on my own and answerable to no one. I highly recommend it.

With only six days to spend in Japan, I decided to divide my trip between Tokyo and Kyoto, no matter how badly I also wanted to eat my way across Osaka or head up into the mountains. I learned from my New Zealand trip that sometimes, you can just want to do too much. So I planned for three days in each city, beginning with Kyoto and ending in Tokyo.

I spent a lovely three days in Kyoto, eating tofu and gyoza and udon and seemingly matcha everything. I stayed in a capsule hotel and a Ryokan, took the subway and buses everywhere, and saw more temples and shrines than I ever knew I was interested in. I walked through Nishiki market and a bamboo grove, and discovered the culinary wonderland that is a Japanese department store basement.

In Tokyo, I filled up on ramen and melon pan and more gyoza and cream puffs and beer. I explored markets and as many neighborhoods as I could, with time for a side trip to Mt. Fuji and a luxurious soak in an onsen. I marveled at the neon of Shibuya and the lit up Tokyo Tower at night, and took seemingly every subway line in the city (not really, not even close). 

People were friendly, my pocket wifi and Google maps were my constant companions, and despite the weather I managed to explore as many outdoors sites as I could fit in. The 6 days flew by, and before I knew it was was slurping one last bowl of ramen at the airport and filling a duty free basket with kit kats. I came home exhausted but so, so happy with myself.

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I also learned so much about traveling in Japan.

There are many guides out there on the topic, from Lonely Planet to other excellent sites, but I learned a few things on my trip that I think are helpful to share. Below are a few topics that I'm going into, because I wished I had known a little more about them before I went, or because I feel like I had a different experience than what I expected.

Train Travel in Japan

My plan was to land at Narita and then take the Narita Express to the Shinkansen at Tokyo Station and head to Kyoto. From what I gather, this is not a usual plan regarding travel in Japan. Most travelers seem to land in Tokyo and spend a few days there before heading elsewhere. I can see why.

Shinkansen trains of all tiers run all day long, and if you are leaving Tokyo in the morning you have seemingly infinite options in a full range of prices. My plan to leave right after an evening arrival in Tokyo added an extra level of stress to my trip, seconded by the alarmed look the JR official gave me when I informed her I wanted to go to Kyoto that night. It wasn't impossible, but had anything gone wrong with my plane travel I would have had a serious wrench thrown in my plans. As it was, upon landing, I had to clear customs, pick up my portable wifi, buy tickets for both the Narita Express and the Shinkansen to Kyoto, then make the Narita Express, then find the Shinkansen tracks at the station and not miss that train. In practice, none of this was difficult, but as a to-do list in an unfamiliar airport and country on the first day, it was a tad overwhelming.

JR Rail Pass

Most guides I read and people I've asked about Japan will recommend the JR Rail pass, which is a voucher available to foreigners traveling to Japan, exchanged for Shinkansen tickets between cities and used for all JR subway lines in major cities. The fine print of this pass is that you have to buy it before you head to Japan, and you have to buy it with enough lead time that they can FedEx you the voucher. Why it isn't electronic, I have no idea. I didn't realize this was the case, and so I sat down to purchase two days before my trip to Japan, too late to buy the pass. So if  you want to purchase this and use it, make sure you do it at least a week before you are heading to Japan.

The other fine print of the JR Rail Pass is that it only covers up to a certain tier of Shinkansen. It actually worked out that I wasn't relying on the pass, because landing in Tokyo with limited hours until trains stopped running, I needed all options available to me. I ended up purchasing tickets for the Nozomi Shinkansen, the fastest but most expensive Shinkansen ticket (go big or go home, right?). This would not have been covered by the JR pass. 

Where the JR Pass really saves you money is if you are traveling between multiple cities. My roundtrip to Kyoto was comparable in price, but had I also decided to go to Osaka, then I would have been spending more than if I had purchased the pass. The JR pass can also be used on all JR subway lines in all major cities in Japan, but my experience traveling around Tokyo and Kyoto proved that JR lines were rarely the subway lines I needed to take, so I would have been spending extra money for subway trips on top of the pass. 

Shinkansen (Bullet Train) Tickets

Purchasing individual Shinkansen tickets was incredibly easy. There is a JR or Shinkansen ticket office located in all major train stations and airports, and the staff speak English. I walked into the JR East office in the lower level of Narita Airport, and 5 minutes later walked out with both my Narita Express ticket and my Shinkansen ticket to Kyoto. I booked the return separately, because I didn't know exactly what time I planned to leave Kyoto to return to Tokyo, but I probably would have saved money purchasing the full round trip fare all at once. I bought the return ticket from the Shinkansen office in Kyoto Station, and it was just as easy.

If you are taking a bullet train to or from Tokyo, consider taking the train to Shinagawa Station instead of Tokyo Station. I left for Kyoto from Shinagawa, because the JR clerk told me that would be much easier to navigate than Tokyo Station. I scoffed a little at this, but after arriving in Tokyo Station from Kyoto, I had to admit she was right. Tokyo Station is a rabbit warren, and when you lose your Shinkansen ticket that you need to access the JR gates, and officials keep asking you which concourse you came through and you have no freaking idea, you may be grateful for the relatively tiny layout of Shinagawa.

Taking the Subway in Japan - Use an IC Card

My first impression of the subway in Tokyo is that it is a subway system on crack. It is both incredibly efficient and incredibly confusing. I can't imagine that being my first introduction to a subway system. Despite the sheer size and complexity, there are ways to easily navigate the system. Access to Google maps was a must, and using a Pasmo or Suica card will make your life so much easier.

In Kyoto I did more walking between neighborhoods and attractions, the subway system there is smaller, and buses were a flat fare, so I found it easy to just purchase tickets as I went. But when I got to Tokyo, I quickly realized that approach would not work, because to get from point A to point B, I would have to take two or even three different subway lines, meaning two different tickets to transfer.

So I bought a Pasmo, or IC card from a machine and loaded it up with Yen. This meant I could just tap the card to enter the subway and to transfer between lines, no need to calculate my fair or stop to buy the appropriate ticket. A Suica card is similar, and both can be used on both JR lines and the other private subway and train lines, as well as the Tokyo monorail. IC cards can't be used to access the Shinkansen platforms, but once you are in a city, you can use them. So if I had purchased a Pasmo card in Kyoto, once I got to Tokyo I could have used it. 

Getting to and from Tokyo Airports

Narita Express

I  landed at Narita International Airport, and had to get myself from there to Shinagawa station to catch my Shinkansen to Kyoto. Narita is far outside of Tokyo (think going to JFK from NYC, but multiply both traffic and distance), so a taxi isn't usually the most efficient option. The easiest option is the Narita Express, a dedicated train line that operates between Narita terminals and a few stations in Tokyo, including Shinagawa and Tokyo station. You can purchase tickets at machines or at the JR East Travel Office in the lower level of Narita. Seats are assigned and there was plenty of space for luggage storage. It takes about an hour to get to Tokyo, and the Express only runs about every half hour, so you do need to budget time accordingly for that. Depending on when you land and how quickly you clear customs, you could be waiting a while for the next express.

Tokyo Monorail to Haneda

If you are flying in or out of Haneda Airport, then the Tokyo monorail is an excellent option for airport travel. I flew home from Haneda, and from my hotel, it was a short trip to the monorail station, and the monorail only took about 20 minutes to arrive at the international terminal. You can use your Pasmo card (or JR pass) on the monorail, and overall the experience was much quicker and more efficient than the Narita express, though this is also because Haneda is much closer to Tokyo than Narita.

The only advice about the monorail is that the platform is on the third level of the station, and from what I could tell there were no escalators, only one elevator. So either wait in line for the elevator, or be prepared to haul your suitcase up three flights of stairs. 

If you are getting on the monorail at Hamamatsucho Station, follow the signs for the monorail, then turn to the right out of the station exit. The monorail platform is down at the end of the covered walkway, not straight ahead of the station exit as you might assume from the signs.

Pocket WiFi for Travel in Japan

Literally every guide you read will tell you to get a pocket wifi for your trip to Japan. I know we are all getting text neck, but that's a small price to pay if you want full mobility in Tokyo. I read somewhere that there are no wrong turns in Japan, only new directions, but seriously, a portable wifi is not optional if you want to be able to navigate the city and the train system and you don't have an international data plan. 

There are many providers of pocket wifis at comparable price points, but I decided on Ninja wifi, because they allowed for a more last minute purchase where others seemed to require the reservation to be made a 4-5 days ahead of time. I purchased two days before leaving for Tokyo, and just went to the Ninja wifi counter in the arrivals hall at Narita to pick it up. When I flew out of Haneda, I dropped of the wifi at the counter in the departures level. 

Carry a portable charger or be careful with battery life, since it does drain the battery to be constantly refreshing maps. On the other hand, battery conservation was a good reason to just put my phone down and observe.

Paying in Japan

Japan is a heavily cash-based society. Most hotels and some restaurants took credit cards, but for the most part, you will need cash. This is somewhat annoying as only large amounts of Yen are in bills, and most of what you will be using day to day, like 500 Yen or 100 Yen amounts, are all in coins. Make sure you have a coin purse or wallet where you can stash a lot of coins, and just be ready to sift through the pile when it's time to pay.

Other Tips for Travel in Japan

When dining out, I found it to be a mix of paying the bill at the table and paying at a counter. I just watched what other people did and copied them.

Most restaurants have little baskets or bags next to the table or under the bar, where you can stash coats and bags while you eat. As a woman who is constantly exasperated when bars don't have bag hooks underneath, I loved this.

There are very few public trash bins in Japan. You can find them at train stations and possibly in convenience stores, but for the most part, you won't see them. You can just take trash back to the vendor you purchased from, or carry it around in a small bag until you find a bin. Needless to say, don't toss trash in a vendor's bins that you did not purchase from them.